Showing posts with label nigeria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nigeria. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Tale of Child Soldiers Wins Llewellyn Rhys Award

The John Llewellyn Rhys award for debut writers was won by Uzodinma Iweala's for his Beasts of No Nation, described by Michelle Pauli in the Guardian as:
a brutal but surprisingly poetic novel about an African child soldier ... an intensely moving story, as well as a horrifying one, all the more so for tackling an issue of our time ...
The issue of course being child soldiers and as the Pauli points, Save the Children estimates that around 300,000 children around the world are currently fighting in wars.

Nigerian born Iweala is just 23. He grew up in the US and studied at Harvard where his novel grew out of the thesis he was writing. His mum Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala is Nigeria's finance minister (and hailed as "a great reformer").

You can read with him about his writing and about his views on Africa in this very interesting interview from the Morning News.

And as this article from the Herald Tribune points out, there is a whole new generation of Nigerian writers taking the literary world by storm. Some names to watch out for Sefi Atta, Helen Oyeyemi, Chris Abani, Segun Afolabi, and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie.

All of which makes me very happy. Not least because a part of my heart still lives in Nigeria.

Related Posts:

Shakespeare the African (15/3/05)
Read and Become Wise (11/5/05)

Thursday, July 14, 2005

My Home at the End of the World

We are given a house on the school compound, Gulshan and I. It is rectangular concrete box, one of three on this side of the school compound.

Inside the walls are painted dark blue, and the windows are high up on the walls, so that you cannot see out of them unless you stand on a chair. The lounge has sliding glass doors, which lead out onto the porch.

There is little furniture in the lounge. The dining table had been taken from the students’ dining hall. The dining chairs have been borrowed from the staff room. There is a lounge set, though some of the rubber strips that hold the foam cushions in place are missing, and so you must balance yourself carefully, so as not to fall through. There is a cupboard without doors, which is where I keep the few possessions I have brought with me, my camera, my recorder, a radio-cassette with the tapes I hastily recorded before I left and a few I bought on the street in Jos, and some items of makeup. I’ve also acquired an object that looks like a clay jug without a spout: it is in fact a drum, which you slap with the palms. The concrete floor is bare but for a straw mat I bought in the market. I don’t mop it often, I haven’t the energy, and it feels gritty. When the Harmattan comes howling round the houses, it doesn’t matter how often you sweep and wipe the furniture: there is always a layer of red dust on everything.

The kitchen has a stove and a refrigerator. The electricity only comes on for a few hours at night when the school generator comes on and so the refrigerator is useless for keeping more than bottles of water cold. I have a wonderful clay pot, which is so much more effective than the refrigerator. I keep it outside my backdoor, buried up to the lip in sand. The water is ice cold, even at the hottest part of the day.

Water is the great problem here. Outside the back door, there is a large zinc tank, which is filled once a week when the school tanker drives to Lafia, 60 km away. Sometimes, if I have water delivered to my tank, the girls come at night with their buckets and steal it.

But often the school tanker breaks down and we have to ask the students to bring us water. They carry it on their heads three kilometers from the river. I boil the water assiduously for ten minutes to kill all the bacteria, as we were told to do on our VSO training course, and pour it into the stainless steel water filter. The water trickles through the central core of limestone leaving the sediment behind.

The storeroom is almost empty. A few yam tubers that I shall later cut up and fry, and eat with sardines and onions. Rice, which we shall have to pick through to remove the stones. Dried beans and macaroni already infested with weevils, though this no longer bothers us. Perhaps a few cans of mackerel for the cat, and a couple of tins of baked beans, which we are saving up for a special treat for ourselves. We have to keep our papaya shut away in the store too; the cat is crazy for it. Perhaps that was one food that was easily available to him in the bush when he was a kitten?

We each have a bedroom. I sleep under a mosquito net, which always smells of dust. I spray insecticide under it, but still sometimes a mosquito gets trapped inside it and buzzes and bites the whole night long.

It is unbearably hot at night, without a fan even to keep us cool. I usually wake up in the small hours of the morning, bathed in sweat and go to the bathroom to throw cold water over myself so I can get back to sleep.

I have a big Hausa wedding basket in the corner of the room where for now I keep my dirty washing, but I shall take it home with me when the time comes. There are also a few novels by the side of my bed: some books in the Heinemann African Writers series that I managed to find in the bookshop in Jos, and then there are thrillers that I’ve borrowed in desperation from my Zairian neighbour, Kayembe, who is in love with Gulshan.

Gulshan’s room is next to mine. Her bed is covered in a brightly patterned Indian sheet, which came from her mother’s shop in Hastings. Why does the cat prefer to sleep, stretched out on her bed, when it’s me that feeds him?

The bathroom has a shower that cannot be used. The water tanker, even if it has water, cannot pump it up to the top tank that would provide each of the houses with piped water.

Instead, we carry all our water for bathing in buckets. I have a huge enamel basin, big enough to sit in, so that sometimes I can warm a pan of water on the stove and luxuriate in the nearest thing to a proper bath I can find.

We have a western style toilet. Because we do not have piped water, each time we want to flush it, we must pour water into the cistern. We use the water from washing clothes and washing ourselves, and sometimes I have to ask my students to let me have their dirty water from bathing.

The house faces the hostel, and the movements of the students set the pace for our days. In the morning the clank of buckets wakes us, as they make their way to the zinc sheds that serve as bathrooms. We know when to leave the house in the morning, when we see them parading off to school in their blue uniforms. In the long, hot afternoons the girls sit on upturned buckets for hours plaiting and binding each other’s hair into elaborate styles and gossiping. The vultures hop around them, ungainly and ridiculous on the ground.

Later, the girls go for sports practice, or clear the weeds and grass from the compound to keep away the snakes. Sometimes the girls come and sit on the porch with me and ask about England or trade songs with me.

There is a smoke-blacked hole in the asbestos board on the underside of the zinc roof. There was hive of bees inside my roof. I liked them because I could close my eyes and imagine myself back in an English country garden. But everyone said that they were dangerous and had to be got rid of. The Bible Studies master, the same man who had helped me to buy my water pot, offered to smoke them out. Gulshie and I acquiesced sadly, and went off to the school to supervise night prep when he came round to do the deed. When we came home, we learned that he had indeed smoked the bees, but had also taken the honey to sell in the town. We had been left with the hole in the roof, and all the bees, which had swarmed into our lounge. Now the space under the roof has become the home of a barn own, whose talons I hear scratching the ceiling of my bedroom.

I watch the comings and going to the matron’s house next door. She has a small shop where she sells soft drinks in bottles, sweets and biscuits. Sometimes she is prepared to sell one of her chickens: a particularly noisy rooster that crowed under my window at four a.m. tastes especially sweet. The matron also seems to act a marriage broker, and young men come up from the town to ask her to mediate between themselves and the schoolgirl they’ve chosen. Our principal doesn’t know this.

Beyond the wire mesh fence where our clothes are drying, you can see the bush for miles around. Fulani herdsmen graze their white zebu cattle on the dry savannah and white egrets settle on the cows like a flight of stars.

My home at the end of the world: a good place to heal myself.


With Kunga - official clown to the town ruler

Monday, May 02, 2005

Kindness in Oshogbo

(continued ...)

Nike's kindness didn't end with taking charge of us at the Sacred Grove. She took us back to her home for dinner.

Nike shared a large house with several co-wives. In the courtyard of the house there were several artists at work in different media and we watched them at work as we ate a delicious meal of amala (my favourite fufu) okra soup and pepper soup.

Nike introduced her husband, who went by the unlikely name of Twins Seven-Seven. He was not a good-looking man, but had a strong sexual aura about him. I didn’t find out who he was until I started leafing through the albums of press-cuttings on the table.

Twins Seven Seven was so named because he was the only surviving child of seven sets of twins. Twins have special spiritual significance in Yoruba culture. A seventh child (even in Western culture) and is thought to have occult powers. Twins was also believed to be an abiku, a child who is so torn between the spirit world and this one, that after it is born, it immediately dies to reenter the womb at the next conception. And of course he represented the spiritual fulfimement of all the thirteen other dead children his mother had given birth too. How could this man fail to be someone special?

Twins' spiritual fulfillment came from his art. He was one of Nigeria’s foremest artists, and leader of the famous Oshogbo group.

Nike had been working with her mother, dying batik cloth in the traditional Nigerian way (using starch and indigo) when Twins discovered her. With his encouragement she went on to become a world-famous artist with exhibitions in cities across the world, including London and Los Angeles.



(Nike's embroidered picture of Oshun)

When I started writing this entry, I looked Nike up on the internet and found that she was as active as ever. She has set up a centre to help local women artists. She's still exhibiting overseas, and her children have followed in her footsteps.

I truly thank her from the bottom of my heart for taking care of a couple of lost tourists and teaching them something of the cultural life of the Yoruba. My visit to Oshogbo remains a very treasured memory.




(Nike in traditional attire)

Saturday, April 30, 2005

Meeting Oshun

One commenter in my blog gives herself the nick “Oshun”. I ask her if she knows that it’s the name of a Yoruba goddess. She does. I tell her that once I visited the shrine of Oshun in Nigeria. She wants the story.

So here it is.

I was working as a volunteer teacher in a government girl’s school in Plateau State in the north of Nigeria in the early ‘80’s. Every opportunity I got, I travelled as far as my limited budget would take me, taking cheap local transport and often putting up at the houses of other VSO’s teaching in other parts of the country.

One trip took me to a very special town, Oshogbo, a town of great religious significance to the Yoruba people in the south of the country (towards Lagos) and two days travel away by public transport. I broke my journey in Ilorin to meet up with my friend Denise who wanted to come with me. (Denise was so beautiful that men flocked round her like bees round a honey-pot, but hey, that's another story.)

We’d read a little about Oshogbo and wanted to visit the sacred groves and the shrine of the orisha (goddess) Oshun. First though, it was necessary to visit the house of Suzanne Wenger. Wenger was an Austrian artist who came to Nigeria in the 1950's. She married into the polygamous household of an illiterate Yoruba drummer and became one of the priestesses for the Oshun cult of the Yoruba people. The sacred shrines of the Yoruba gods had fallen into decay as increasing numbers of the Yoruba became Christians and Moslems, and as missionary education and modern technology changed the mindset of the people. Wenger (called Adunni or Adored One by the locals) set about the task of rebuilding the traditional shrines, and trained local crafts people to help her. She encouraged them to produce work which was of the highest artistic standards, yet African rather than pseudo-European.

Wenger's influence spread, until the town which had never heard the word "art" before, became the most important centre for artisitic creation in the country.

Dancing carvings of Yoruba deities adorned the front of Wenger's dark house. Denise and I were a little scared to enter. The artist herself came down from her studio to meet us, a thin elderly woman with cropped grey hair and a thick Austrian accent who did not exactly make us feel at ease. She showed us some of the work in her shop (batiks, carvings) by local artists.

Then Denise and I decided to walk to the shrines following Wenger's directions, but soon got lost, and unable to speak Yoruba, we were at a loss as to what to do next. Suddenly there was an elegant young woman at our side.

Are you artists? she asked.

We told her that we were volunteer teachers. If she was a little disappointed, she didn't show it, but introduced herself as Nike Olanayi and offered to give us a lift to the shrines herself. She left us in the company of an old man who served as guide and offered to come back for us in a couple of hours so that she could accompany us to the most sacred shrine of all - that of the orisha Oshun herself.

Our guide spoke no English, but it didn't matter as he led us from one amazing sculpture to the next. The Sacred grove was part modern art gallery, part open air cathedral and Wenger's sculptures were amazing! Scattered within an area of pristine rainforest, surreal elongated figures of gods danced, and stretched their arms to the sky, twisting in and out of the trees, growing organically from the ground. The god of creativity Obatala, sprang from the head of the elephant who dreamed him. (Now that's inspiration! Let no creature be so humble as to think that they cannor conjure a god.) A ‘market’ place was inhabited by all manner of fantastic creatures. We wandered by the side of the sacred river coming across even more figures of spirits hidden in the grass.





Nike clearly made a habit of picking up all the waifs and strays who arrived in Oshogbo and shepherding them to the shrines. She came back for us a while later with two Canadian volunteers and an African-American man in tow, and we all followed her down a tree-lined path to the part of the river where Oshun's shrine was situated. The priestess (small and plump was dressed in a bright checkered sundress) was sitting among the rocks on mats. She wore a beadwork necklace (made by Nike) with the emblem of a fish which represented the goddess.

She wanted money.

Nike explained to her that we wanted to see the shrine but could not afford to pay since we were volunteer teachers and earned very little.

The priestess spat on the ground. Whites without money? All of us carrying cameras too.

Reluctantly she relented and led us to the shrine which was housed in a building of Wenger’s design.

There was an effigy of the goddess painted red. Offerings of kola nuts and other types of food were laid before it and there was a space to kneel and say prayers. Oshun is the most beautiful one, the flirtacious owner of the river, wearer of beautiful clothes and jewellery, the sensual one, the bringer of children to the wombs of the barren, the seductive dancer who lured out Ogun the creator when he had withdrawn from the world. Nike told us that the goddess brought fertility for many women. One woman was in her fifties, she said, and had conceived and gave birth to a healthy child after sacrifices to the goddess.




(Image of Oshun by the sacred river).

The American guy was the most moved by the proximity of the goddess. His was a pilgrimage of love, the journey of a life-time, back to Africa to discover his roots. He was almost weeping as he pleaded with the priestess to let him buy some cassette recordings of sacred chants for Oshun. The priestess was one tough cookie, not given to sentiment. What did it matter to her if he'd come thousands of miles in search of his identity? He was American and therefore had money. The price she asked was astronomical. (Equivalent to a good portion of my teacher's salary). Yet he was prepared to pay it only too willingly.

(Next installment - Who is Nike?).

Monday, April 11, 2005

Read and Become Wise

I found one of my books in the bin and rescued it.

"Well you left it lying around for so long, and then the cat pissed on it," Abu explained, as I wiped the cover clean of vegetable peelings.

It doesn't look much - scarcely more than a pamphlet. It's actually a chapbook written to deliver a moral lesson, in this case how to manage your money properly. It's poorly printed with crude black and white drawings. The text is not set straight on some of the pages. But this is one of the most treasured books in my library. I bought it in a bookshop in Nigeria more than twenty years ago and it is a classic of Onitsha Market publishing called Money Hard to get but Easy to Spend: Read and Become Wise. And reading it again I became nostalgic for West Africa.

So here is some of its wisdom and a taste of the delicious style of writing so common in Nigeria.

Jealousy too much nowadays, whatever you do people must jealous you for that and say against you. One wife one trouble, two wives two troubles. Not the person who calls police do win, but the person who is right.

Money is hard to get but easy to spend. Big man big trouble, small man small trouble. Time is money and waits for nobody. Law is no respect of any person, whether rich or poor.

ONE DAY VISIT HOSPITAL OR THE LEPER COLONY AND SEE HOW GOD LOVES YOU.

Men are powerful and do suffer. Women are difficult. You can't win them by lies because you can't feed them on lies. Money hard to get but women do not know. They are the same with children.

MAN PROPOSES GOD DISPOSES

No condition permanent in this world. Big or small, rich or poor, all will die. When some people hate you, some people will love you. Make monkey go England and come back, it will still answer monkey.

Prevention is better than cure. A word is enough for the wise. When an old woman falls down twice, she counts the contents of her basket. My son is tall is not power. That a man talks too much does not mean he knows word. Everyday is not Christmas; You cannot pass me in two ways, if you are taller than me I will be shorter than you. If you are richer than me I will be poorer than you.



Nobody is perfect. A patient dog eats the fattest bone. Not that wrestling started from morning to night is important but who wins. It is true that it is hard to see a man who does not like the affairs of women and that it is also hard to see woman who does not like the affairs of men? … Be a man of your words. Do not say something you don't know about it.

Women like to engineer words so don't agree all that your wife tells you.

There are two major things that kills a man. MONEY AND WOMEN.

These type of men and women dancing are the type of people who spend money too much. They can get 10 Naira a day and spend all on useless things. Give me twelve bottles of beer give me one roasted fowl, tune to Congo, tune to Nigeria, tune to Ghana, put better records, are what their bodies want.

Harlots are dangerous women and should be strongly bewared for. They are commonly found in hotels. They contribute to the existence of holiganism, robber and the deteriorating immoral life of some of our boys.


So now you know.

But amazing what the Internet turns up. I discovered that a writer called Kurt Thometz has compiled a book of some of the best market literature from Nigeria called Life Turns a man Up and Down: High Life, Useful Advice, and Mad English (Random House) and ordered it from Amazon. It's a wonderful collection of texts, and just goes to show that a nation's most loved literature does not have to be printed on glossy paper, does not even have to couched in faultless English to find a lasting place in the heart of its people.

Tuesday, March 15, 2005

Shakespeare the African

I hadn't known that Shakespeare was African, until my students taught me.

My Form Five girls were studying literature for their West African School Certificate. We'd plowed through Acebe's Things Fall Apart, grappled with aspects of negritude in a selection of West African poetry, and analysed Ama Ata Aidoo's play about an interculture marriage Dilemma of a Ghost.

But reading Julius Caesar with the class was something I dreaded. I railed against the setters of the syllabus in the staffroom. Weren't my kids finding it hard enough already to cope with even modern English, and what could a British playwright born centuries earlier possibly have to say to them?

I soon found out.

Julius Caesar is an African play.

Nigerians know all about coups and their aftermath. Superstition and black magic, soothsayers, omens and prophetic dreams is part of the currency of everyday life in West Africa. Great oratory is loved and valued.

Mark Anthony stirred the class into action in the last lesson of the day, with the girls taking turns to read his part. The atmosphere in the classroom was electric - I'd never seen my students so enthusisatic about a text before.

The bell for lunch rang. The class seemed not to have heard it. I let them read on for a while. The rest of the school streamed out of classrooms towards the canteen.

"Let's continue, Ma," said one of the girls seeing that I looked worried about holding them back.

We went on for a few more minutes until my conscience got the better of me: "Right," I said "you'd better go for your lunch."

"Ohhhhhh, so it's lunchtime is it, Ma?" said someone and the class laughed but made no move to close their books. It was a mutiny!

It was only when we finished the scene some twenty minutes later that they finally packed away their things and left the classroom. They'd missed their lunch, but no-one seemed to mind.

The story of Julius Caesar seemed to pass into legend around the school compound, being told and retold even by girls who weren't in my class. Someone composed a song for Brutus which had the words "Farewell, Brutus, farewell," sung to the tune of Two Lovely Black Eyes. (Now where on earth had they got that from?) I heard it being sung around the school compound for weeks afterwards.