Space to Read

Was at Central Market Annex today to meet the lovely Pang and look at spaces for the International Readings on 7th.

Renovation work is still going on - there were teams of workmen banging about all over the place, wooden floors were being sanded and varnished, but when the place is finished ... I think it's really going to be a home from home for all in the arts community and I can already think of ways I'd like to occupy some of the rooms!

As for the quest at hand - I took one look at the main gallery on the 2nd floor and declared that this was exactly what I wanted. There is an exhibition on at the moment celebrating the landmarks of New York and Kuala Lumpur. The photography is excellent. Nearly broke my heart all over again over an installation by Caecer Chong showing a huge blow up of Bok House as it was being demolished, with masking tape over all the evidence of mutilation ... as if a sticking plaster could heal the wound. (I got a bit carried away in the guest book and almost ended up writing an essay.) Also very much enjoyed working out what was happening in the Pang's own photos ... hidden in a little side room. And came away educated about landmarks I hadn't realised were landmarks.

Pang cut me a deal for the room hire, logistics were worked out and we celebrated with curry mee in Central Market next door. Am comforted that despite the renovations, this place is as tacky as ever.

Had a really nice wander through Chinatown after that with a visit to my favourite shop - Peter Ho's - which sells all kinds of household treasures, clothes, jewellery and divine cakes.

But an otherwise perfect day was spoiled by my car breaking down and needing the medical services of a tow-truck.

Anyway, the publicity for the event will be out shortly ...

Postscript

Pang is organising Art Bites a weekend of creative workshops at Central Market Annex for the public on 3rd and 4th February, and has roped in some of KL's top arts practitioners. Sessions include story telling, folk dancing, drumming, creative writing, theatre games, collage art, relaxation techniques and a talk on the history of philosophy.

The Tragic End of Bok House

Sometimes stories are in books and sometimes they are held in the walls of buildings.

I can't let this week go past without this diversion to talk about the demolition of one of KL's most beautiful buildings, Bok House. I feel very emotional about the way an important heritage building is torn down because of the commercial value of the land. (Also see Elizabeth Wong's posts here and here and Dr. Rais' explanation excuse here. Lensamalaysia's account here.)

You do of course, know the romantic legend of the house, right? If not here it is. (An adaptation of info from Badan Warisan).

Chua Cheng Bok arrived as a penniless immigrant from China with no education, and got a job in shop selling spices, but then decided to move into a business of his own.

At night, after his day job was done, he went to “Red Light Corner” at the junction of Ampang which was lit at night to prevent any traffic colliding in the dark, and there he mended bicycles and carriage.

Later he heard of an Englishman up country whose tin mine was going bust and who was about to sack his workers and return to England, and Chua bought over the mine. (Later when he was rich he voluntarily paid the Englishman a pension for the rest of his life.)

The story goes that Chua fell in love with the daughter of a rich man who lived in a big mansion on Jalan Ampang, but the father turned him down because of his humble origins.

Eventually he built a mansion just across the road, more beautiful and grander than that of the man who had rebuffed him. Perhaps it was to spite him. Perhaps (and I like to think this) it was to remind the daughter daily of his love for her.

The company that Chua founded was called Cycle and Carriage, after his humble beginnings in KL. Some of you may have heard of it!

The house was later used as a restaurant - Le Coq d'Or. I went to eat there a couple of times, and while the food didn't delight (steaks, chicken chop - not terribly well cooked ... but I loved the bombe alaska with sparklers embeded in it, which was a birthday treat!)

But it was the ambience of the place that delighted - the statues in the hallway, the sweeping central staircase, the very gothic light fittings, the age-stained oil paintings, the bathrooms with their imported British sanitary ware and one of the most ingenious showers I've ever seen (pipes sprayed water at the bather from every direction!) It was a museum piece, and one that should have been preserved. This photograph by Azrul Kevin Abullah* is sadly captioned "probably one of last times sunlight fell inside this house" is perhaps the most fitting memorial to a piece of KL's history now gone forever.

*His account of the house as it used to be, and more photos here.